Sichuan Teahouses: A Reflection of Ba-Shu Culture

Teahouses, public establishments in cities and towns, originated in the Tang Dynasty and experienced prosperity in the Song Dynasty. They gained popularity in South China, where tea was cherished by the locals, and they were also prevalent throughout North China. Teahouses came in different forms, serving a wide range of tea varieties such as regular tea, ginger tea with spices, peppermint tea, and plum tea. However, during the Tang and Song dynasties, teahouses primarily served as meeting spots for townspeople, fulfilling their social function.

Ba-Shu, an early renowned tea-producing region in China, has maintained the tradition of tea consumption to this day. As the saying goes, “there are few clear days, but many teahouses” in Sichuan Province, particularly in Chengdu City, known for its diverse teahouses of various sizes. Whether large or small, Sichuan teahouses emphasize exceptional service, elegant storefronts, high-quality tea, cast iron tea sets, and skilled staff. These traditional teahouses provide customers with red copper teapots, tin saucers, teacups with Jingdezhen porcelain covers, and tuocha—a bowl-shaped compressed tea leaves. The tearoom keepers are well-versed in their craft.

Beyond their abundance and excellent service, Sichuan teahouses also capture attention due to their significant social functions.

Sichuan Province, known for its natural beauty and abundant resources, boasts a rich local culture that thrived since ancient times. During the Three Kingdoms Period, Zhuge Liang’s efforts in establishing the State of Shu in Sichuan played a pivotal role in the development of Ba-Shu culture, where the tradition of engaging in state affairs was cherished. Given Sichuan’s geographical challenges, accessing information about state matters was difficult for the locals. Teahouses in Sichuan served as vital hubs for disseminating this information, where people gathered not only to enjoy tea but also to exchange knowledge. These teahouses acted as microcosms of society, with large establishments found throughout cities like Chongqing and Chengdu, where people would leisurely spend their mornings, even washing their faces there, enjoying tea and breakfast while engaging in conversations. Though modest in decor, Sichuan teahouses exuded an inviting atmosphere, allowing customers to sit at tables or recline on bamboo deck chairs as they sipped their tea. Upon entering, patrons were warmly greeted by the waitstaff, who skillfully prepared tea, effortlessly removing the covers from teacups with one hand while pouring tea with the other. This display showcased the tea culture’s emphasis on grace, precision, and skill. Sichuanese had a fondness for tuocha, a compressed tea with a robust flavor and delicate aroma, particularly suitable for extended discussions as its flavors lingered. Some would indulge in tea from early morning until noon, requesting their teacups be saved for post-lunch refreshment. Renowned for their quick wit and mastery of debate, the Sichuanese engaged in lively discussions on a wide range of topics with both familiar faces and new acquaintances. As information exchange centers, Sichuan teahouses served a vital role in the community.

Additionally, teahouses in Sichuan played a role akin to unofficial courts. When disputes arose, locals would convene at a teahouse, seeking the assistance of influential figures such as security group leaders, rural elites, or members of the Paoge Master (a secretive society prevalent in the region). While the fairness of these resolutions remained uncertain, the practice demonstrated the Sichuanese perception of teahouses as impartial venues for conflict resolution. In contrast to teahouses elsewhere, Sichuan teahouses held more pronounced political and social significance.

Contrary to misconceptions, Sichuan teahouses were not exclusively associated with vulgarity; many scholars frequented these establishments. It is rumored that Sichuan authors found solace in teahouses, able to find tranquility amidst the lively ambiance and draw inspiration from their surroundings. During fair weather, local teahouses would arrange seating outdoors, providing an opportunity for people to enjoy Sichuan opera, qingyin (a popular form of ballad singing in the province), shuochang (a genre of entertainment involving storytelling and singing), and puppet shows. Thus, teahouses served as public spaces for hosting cultural activities.

Moreover, Sichuan teahouses facilitated economic exchanges, a crucial function often overlooked. Specifically designed teahouses in Chengdu catered to businessmen, offering comfortable seating, tea accompanied by light refreshments, and the ability to order dishes at any time. These teahouses served as convenient venues for business negotiations. In the past, individuals would even purchase official positions and seek higher ranks within teahouses. Businesspeople frequently gathered at village teahouses, further emphasizing their significance as centers for commerce.